Wine Education · Grapes
Cypriot Grape Varieties: Xynisteri, Maratheftiko and the Indigenous Grapes to Know
These are grapes that exist nowhere else on earth. Here is what makes each one distinct, what it tastes like, and why it matters.
- By CWFexpo Editorial
- 13 min read
- Updated April 2026
- Part of our Cypriot Wine series
There is a vine in Cyprus called Maratheftiko that nearly disappeared entirely. By the 1980s, as the island’s wine industry modernised and international grape varieties were planted in their place, the old indigenous cultivars were being ripped out. Maratheftiko was almost gone. Its loss would have been permanent and irreversible because these grapes exist nowhere else on earth.
That is what makes Cypriot grape varieties genuinely worth paying attention to. We live in a wine world increasingly dominated by a small number of international varieties Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc grown on every continent and producing wines that are competently made and increasingly similar. The argument for indigenous varieties is not cultural sentimentality. It is the argument for flavour that cannot be replicated anywhere else, in any other bottle, regardless of price.
Cypriot wines have this. Xynisteri whites from high-altitude Troodos vineyards taste like nowhere else. A serious Maratheftiko red is unlike anything produced in France, Italy, or Spain. These are wines with a genuine claim to uniqueness and that claim starts with the grapes.
Key varieties at a glance
The main indigenous grape varieties of Cyprus are: Xynisteri (white), crisp, mineral, aromatic; Maratheftiko (red), bold, structured, near-extinct and revived; Yiannoudi (red), soft, spiced, underrated; Mavro (red), most widely planted, used in Commandaria; and Promara (white), delicate, floral, rare. All are indigenous to Cyprus and found nowhere else in the world.
Why Indigenous Grapes Matter
The wine world has a useful parallel. In the 1980s, Assyrtiko from Santorini was barely known outside Greece. Nebbiolo from Piedmont was considered too austere for international markets. Grüner Veltliner from Austria was a curiosity. All three are now recognised as world-class grape varieties that produce wines of genuine distinction, precisely because they grow nowhere else and taste like nowhere else.
Cypriot indigenous varieties are at a similar inflection point. They have been overlooked for long enough that their discovery still carries a genuine sense of surprise. The quality is there. The terroir is extraordinary. And a generation of winemakers has spent the past two decades proving that these grapes, in the right hands, produce wines worth international attention.
The practical consequence for wine drinkers is this: if you try a good Xynisteri or a serious Maratheftiko, you are tasting something that cannot be replicated by any other producer in any other region. That is an increasingly rare thing in a globalised wine market, and it is worth seeking out.
Xynisteri
Xynisteri
Pronounced: ksee-nee-STEH-ree
White
Indigenous
Most Planted White
Start Here
Xynisteri is Cyprus’s most important white grape variety and the most convincing argument for taking Cypriot wine seriously. Its name derives from the Greek for “acidic” — a clue to its defining characteristic and the quality that makes it so distinctive in the context of Mediterranean white wine.
The conventional assumption about Mediterranean whites is that they are heavy, low in acidity, and short-lived. Xynisteri, grown at altitude in the Troodos mountains, challenges every part of that assumption. At 800 to 1,200 metres above sea level, the growing season extends well into autumn, temperatures drop significantly at night, and the grapes develop their natural acidity slowly and completely. The result is a white wine that is dry, crisp, and faintly mineral — closer in spirit to a good Chablis or a coastal Assyrtiko than to the broad, tropical whites of warmer climates.
The aromatic profile is subtle rather than showy: white blossom, citrus peel, a saline mineral note that reflects the limestone soils, and a gentle herbal character that develops with time in the glass. Alcohol is typically modest — 11 to 12.5% ABV — which keeps the wine light and food-friendly. The best examples are barrel-fermented, which adds texture and depth without overwhelming the grape’s inherent delicacy. Kyperounda Winery, at 1,200 metres the highest winery in Cyprus, produces what many consider the benchmark expression.
Xynisteri is also one of the two grapes in Commandaria, where it contributes the acidity and aromatic freshness that prevent the wine from becoming cloying. In a dry table wine, it is the complete argument.
Best Region
High Troodos, 800–1,200m altitude
Typical ABV
11–12.5%
Tasting Notes
Citrus peel, white blossom, sea salt, mineral, herbal
Food Pairing
Halloumi, grilled fish, seafood mezze, lemon-dressed salads
Maratheftiko
Maratheftiko
Pronounced: mah-rah-thef-TEE-ko
Red
Indigenous
Near-Extinct Revival
Most Exciting
Maratheftiko has the best story in Cypriot wine, and it produces wines worthy of it. By the 1980s, this variety had been reduced to a handful of ancient vines in remote villages. The reason was practical: Maratheftiko is a functionally sterile male variety, meaning it cannot self-pollinate and must be interplanted with compatible female vines to set fruit. This quirk of viticulture made it difficult, expensive, and inconvenient to farm. During the modernisation of the Cypriot wine industry, it was largely abandoned.
Its survival was partly accidental and partly the result of a small number of dedicated growers who maintained old mixed plantings. Its revival was the work of a generation of winemakers who recognised what the grape was capable of and were willing to work around its complexities to produce it properly.
The wines it makes justify every bit of that effort. Maratheftiko produces reds that are deeply coloured — almost ink-black in the glass — with firm, structured tannins, wild berry and dark plum fruit, a distinctive earthy minerality, and a long, complex finish that rewards patience. These are wines that benefit from food and from time. A young Maratheftiko can be demanding; one with a few years of bottle age begins to reveal a complexity that few red grape varieties can match.
The DNA evidence supports what the wines suggest: Maratheftiko is genetically unique to Cyprus, with no close relationship to any widely planted international variety. It is, in the fullest sense, something you cannot find anywhere else.
Best Region
Troodos foothills, Limassol district
Typical ABV
13–14.5%
Tasting Notes
Dark plum, wild berry, earth, firm tannins, long finish
Food Pairing
Kleftiko, slow-roasted lamb, aged hard cheese, game
Maratheftiko is genetically unique to Cyprus, with no close relationship to any widely planted international variety. It is, in the fullest sense, something you cannot find anywhere else.
— CWFexpo Wine Guide, 2026
Yiannoudi
Yiannoudi
Pronounced: yah-NOO-dee
Red
Indigenous
Underrated
Yiannoudi is the grape that wine drinkers tend to discover after Maratheftiko and immediately wonder why they were not told about it sooner. Where Maratheftiko is demanding and structured, Yiannoudi is generous and approachable — the indigenous Cypriot red you can open on a Tuesday evening without ceremony and find genuinely pleasurable.
The tannins are softer, the body is medium rather than full, and the fruit character is warmer and more immediate: ripe red cherry, dried herbs, a gentle spice, and a velvety texture that makes the wine move across the palate without resistance. It is not a lesser grape than Maratheftiko — it is a different one, suited to different occasions and different foods.
A growing number of Cypriot producers are working seriously with Yiannoudi, and the results are compelling. The best examples show real depth and complexity alongside the accessibility that defines the variety. If you encounter it on a wine list or at a tasting, order it without hesitation — it represents some of the best-value drinking in the entire Cypriot canon.
Best Region
Paphos highlands, Troodos foothills
Typical ABV
12.5–14%
Tasting Notes
Red cherry, dried herbs, warm spice, velvety texture
Food Pairing
Pork souvlaki, lentil dishes, roasted vegetables, soft cheeses
Mavro
Mavro
Pronounced: MAV-ro — Greek for “black”
Red
Most Widely Planted
Commandaria Grape
Mavro is the most widely planted grape variety in Cyprus and, for much of the 20th century, the reason the island’s wine reputation suffered. Planted extensively across the lowlands, picked early for high yields, and vinified without particular care, Mavro made thin, astringent red wines that gave Cypriot wine a reputation it has spent decades recovering from.
That characterisation is not the complete picture. At altitude, with controlled yields, harvested at genuine physiological ripeness, Mavro can produce honest, food-friendly reds with good colour, clean fruitiness, and a straightforward drinkability that has its own value. It is not a grape of great complexity or age-worthiness. It is a grape of unpretentious pleasure, and there is nothing wrong with that.
Its more important role is as one of the two grapes in Commandaria, where its contribution is structural: body, colour, and a backbone that balances the fragrant acidity of Xynisteri. In that context, it is indispensable. As a table wine variety, approach it without grand expectations and it will often exceed them.
Best Region
Commandaria blending; everyday table wine at altitude
Typical ABV
12–13.5%
Tasting Notes
Red fruit, moderate tannin, straightforward and clean
Food Pairing
Mezze, grilled meats, everyday Cypriot cooking
CWFexpo · June 6 & 7, 2026 · The Decorium, London
Every variety in this guide — poured by the producers who grew them.
Maratheftiko is genetically unique to Cyprus, with no close relationship to any widely planted international variety. It is, in the fullest sense, something you cannot find anywhere else.
Other Varieties Worth Knowing
The four varieties above represent the core of the Cypriot wine palette. But the island’s indigenous range is broader than this, and some of the rarer cultivars are producing wines that serious enthusiasts are beginning to pay close attention to.
Promara
A white variety with a delicate, floral aromatic character — closer to Viognier in style than to the more austere Xynisteri, though with its own distinct profile. Produced in very small quantities, primarily by Vouni Panayia Winery, which has championed it more consistently than any other producer. If you encounter a Promara, try it. It shows a completely different face of Cypriot white wine — aromatic, soft, and beautifully food-friendly with lighter dishes.
Spourtiko
A white variety grown predominantly in the higher Troodos, valued primarily for its high natural acidity, which makes it useful in blending with other whites. Rarely seen as a single-variety wine, but its influence on the freshness and longevity of blended whites is significant. Among winemakers, it is discussed with growing respect as they explore what the island’s full genetic range can offer.
Lefkada
A red variety of limited distribution, Lefkada produces lighter-bodied reds with a distinctive herbal and mineral character. Small experimental bottlings are beginning to appear. It remains genuinely rare and is worth noting as evidence of how much remains unexplored in the Cypriot indigenous palette.
Quick Reference Guide
Use this table when you are at a wine shop, at a festival, or looking at a Cypriot wine list and want to quickly identify what you are likely to be drinking and whether it suits the occasion.
Cypriot Indigenous Grape Varieties — At a Glance
| Variety | Colour | Style | Best For | Accessibility |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Xynisteri | White | Crisp, mineral, dry. Light to medium body. Refreshing acidity. | Seafood. Hot weather. | Easy — universally approachable |
| Maratheftiko | Red | Dark, structured, complex. Firm tannins. Needs food and time. | Special occasions. Serious reds. | Rewarding — needs patience |
| Yiannoudi | Red | Soft, warm, spiced. Medium body. Immediately pleasurable. | Everyday drinking. Food friendly. | Easy — very approachable |
| Mavro | Red | Simple, light, fruity. Honest and easy. | Mezze. Grilled food. | Very easy — entry level |
| Commandaria blend | Sweet | Rich, amber, dried fruit, spice, long finish. | Dessert. Cheese. History. | Easy to enjoy |
| Promara | White | Floral, aromatic, soft. Rare and elegant. | Aperitif. Light dishes. | Easy — rare availability |
Frequently Asked Questions
Xynisteri: ksee-nee-STEH-ree. The X makes a ‘ks’ sound and the stress falls on the third syllable. Maratheftiko: mah-rah-thef-TEE-ko. Four syllables, stress on the third. Neither is intuitive the first time, but both come naturally after a couple of attempts. At CWFexpo, the producers are entirely accustomed to hearing both mispronounced by people who are interested enough to try — they will correct you with good humour and get on with pouring.
Some broad historical relationship exists — Cyprus and Greece share deep cultural ties and there has been cross-Mediterranean movement of vine cuttings over thousands of years. But the major Cypriot indigenous varieties — Xynisteri, Maratheftiko, Yiannoudi, Mavro — are genetically distinct from the main Greek varieties such as Assyrtiko, Agiorgitiko, or Xinomavro. DNA analysis of Maratheftiko shows no close genetic relationship to any widely cultivated variety anywhere in the world. They evolved on the island, in its specific conditions, and the wines reflect that distinctiveness completely.
Primarily because it is agriculturally inconvenient. Maratheftiko is a functionally sterile male variety that cannot pollinate itself — it must be interplanted with compatible female vines in a specific ratio to set fruit reliably. This is costly in terms of vineyard space and management. During the mid-20th century, as Cyprus modernised its wine industry and international varieties were introduced, the practical difficulties of growing Maratheftiko made it economically unattractive. It survived in old mixed plantings in remote villages, and its revival was driven by a generation of winemakers who prioritised quality and distinctiveness over convenience.
It depends on what you usually drink. If you enjoy dry whites — Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Grigio, Chablis — start with a high-altitude Xynisteri. If you enjoy medium-bodied reds — Merlot, Pinot Noir, Côtes du Rhône — start with a Yiannoudi. If you enjoy structured, age-worthy reds — Barolo, Rioja Reserva — go straight to a serious Maratheftiko and give it time with food. And regardless of where you start, try a Commandaria before you leave — it is unlike anything in any of those categories and deserves to be experienced on its own terms.
The most comprehensive opportunity is CWFexpo — London’s annual Cypriot wine festival, held each June at The Decorium in North London, where 20+ Cypriot producers pour direct. Outside of CWFexpo, specialist independent wine merchants with a Mediterranean focus occasionally carry Xynisteri and Commandaria, and a small number of online importers stock Cypriot wines for UK delivery. The full indigenous range — particularly Maratheftiko, Yiannoudi, and rarer varieties like Promara — is very difficult to source outside of Cyprus itself or CWFexpo.
The complete Cypriot grape experience — in one afternoon
Taste the grapes. Meet the people who grew them.
Saturday 6th & Sunday 7th June 2026 · The Decorium, London N22 · 20+ Cypriot wine producers · Every indigenous variety available to taste and buy direct.
Editorial note
Reviewed by CWFexpo Editorial, April 2026. Variety information draws from producer data, the CIVS (Cyprus Vine and Wine Products Council), and academic viticulture sources. Contact us if you spot an error: [email protected]
Continue reading - Cypriot Wine Series
